‘Peptides’ - a bit of a buzz word in skincare and in particular anti-ageing skincare. However, they are useful for all skin types.
So, what IS a peptide? Well, they are fragments of proteins. Proteins are the building blocks of the skin and without peptides, skin doesn’t remain intact and the result is loss of firmness, appearance of wrinkles, texture changes and skin that doesn’t bounce back as it once did. They are the messengers for cell to cell communication which promote collagen, elastin ad fibroblast activity, increase firmness, strengthen capillaries and suppress melanin production. What’s really fascinating about peptides is that research has clearly shown that each of them works in very specific ways to target the exact skincare need. They also teach skin to do what’s required to help revitalise these building blocks, which can help revive ageing skin.
Here are a few of the peptides present in DermaQuest products - you may recognise some!
Matrixl - promotes the development of collagen and elastin, increeases skin thickness
Neodermyl - needle free collagen and elastin filler, boosts fibroblast activity
Argireline and Dermaxyl - inhibits muscle contraction, softens expression lines
Panthenol - assists skin healing, attracts moisture to skin, anti inflammatory, soothing
GigaWhite - brightens and evens skin tone, reduces age spot colour intensity
Acids. The word itself is enough to conjure up scary thoughts of things melting. But these amazing miracle ingredients are among some of the most beneficial skincare ingredients. Found in many products and facial treatments they can help with a whole host of skin concerns from acne to anti ageing and hydration to hyperpigmentation. There are two common types of skincare acids: Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs), which work by removing dead cells on the surface of your skin – also referred to as ‘resurfacing’ – and Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs), which penetrate deep into pores. Here, we introduce you to some of the acids found within our DermaQuest products and treatments and help you to understand that with the correct use they have their place and that they wont melt your face!
GLYCOLIC ACID (AHA)
This is probably one of the more well heard of acids. Derived from sugar cane, this amazing ingredient can treat many concerns such as fine lines and wrinkles, acne, blackheads, dehydration, sun damage and pigmentation. It is a star ingredient in many of our DermaQuest products and resurfacing treatments.
LACTIC ACID (AHA)
This is one of the most gentle resurfacing acids. In fact, it’s so gentle that we use it on our treatments for sensitivity. This gently exfoliating, hydrating acid is found in milk, fruit, vegetables and plants.
SALICYLIC ACID (BHA)
This is our anti acne super hero! Being a BHA, it works deep in to pores and as it is fat-soluble, perfect for oily skin types. It acts like a tornado to deep clean clogged skin whilst having an anti-inflammatory action. Derived from Willow Bark, it is also related to Asprin and so it is not suitable for anyone with an Asprin allergy.
Stem cells are found in many living things - including humans - but don’t worry, DermaQuest use only plant stem cells in their products. These ingredients are truly incredible. They have the ability to self-renew and replace cells in need of repair. So, in terms of use in skin care they are extremely valuable and have many uses such as strengthening sagging skin and improving scars. Below are some of the plant stem cells used in DermaQuest and their function.
Edelweiss - regenerates and protects tissue, nurtures and heals damaged cells, promotes collagen production
Madonna Lily - helps to absorb UV rays similarly to a chemical sunscreen
Lilac - anti inflammatory, acne fighting
Orange - stimulates collagen
MANDELIC ACID (AHA)
Found in Bitter Almonds this acid is great for preventing acne, treating sun damage and evening out pigmentation. It’s what is known as a ‘Tyrosinase inhibitor’. Let me explain - UV rays stimulate a reaction in the skin between Tyrosinase and Copper to produce melanin (pigment). A Tyrosinase inhibitor, like Mandelic Acid, stops the connection between the Tyrosinase and Copper, preventing the production of melanin.
KOJIC ACID (AHA)
Another Tyrosinase inhibitor, Kojic acid is perfect for treating pigmentation and brightening the skin. It is produced by bacteria used in the fermentation of rice for the production of sake.
AZELAIC ACID
Yet another Tyrosinase inhibitor! Again, great for fighting pigmentation and has an anti-bacterial effect so also good for treating acne. It is actually produced from yeast that lived on healthy skin but is also derived from grains such as barley and rye.
ASCORBIC ACID
RETINOIDS
Retinoids, or Vitamin A, is a medically proven vitamin to reduce the signs of ageing. It helps maintain the skin’s structure by inhibiting DNA damage that breaks down collagen. It also stimulates cell turnover, is a powerful anti-oxidant and encourages collagen and elastin growth. These can be a wonderful addition to your skincare routine but it is important you start with a low percentage, applying only a couple of times a week (in the evening) and building up slowly. Skin may feel irritated and flake to begin with but this is quite normal until the skin tolerates it. It is also highly recommended that a high SPF is worn whilst using any retinoid
There are five main types of retinoids - Retinyl palmitate (weakest), Retinol, Retinaldehyde, Tretinoin and Tazarotene (strongest). The skincare products that you buy across the counter will contain one of the first three in varying percentages. The others are prescription only.
Here are the DermaQuest products that contain Retinoids:
Essential Moisturiser - Retinyl Palmitate
Retinol Peptide Youth Serum - Retinol 2%
Retinol Brightening Serum - Retinol 2%
Retinaldehyde Renewal Cream - 0.05%
Retexture Serum - Retinol 1%
We also have a 4% Retinol that is only used in our professional treatments.
More commonly known as Vitamin C! DermaQuest use the most potent form of Vitamin C - called BV-OSC, which is 3 times more penetrating than L-Ascorbic acid. This wonderful ingredient is an anti-oxidant (an ingredient that protects and repairs damage) and it’s benefits include skin brightening, anti ageing, increases collagen production and protects DNA.
TRICHLOROACETIC ACID
Better known as TCA, this acid, derived from vinegar, is a multi functioning acid that improves collagen and elastin production, reduces fine lines and wrinkles and improves acne scarring and hyperpigmentation. This acid is used only in our TCA peel.
HYALURONIC ACID
Very much a buzz word at the moment in skin care - as it should be! This is a natural substance found in all living organisms and is the main component of connective tissue in the human body. This amazing ingredient is a super hydrator. It can hold a thousand times its molecular weight in water! Not only that but is helps to restore the skin, maintain elasticity, prevent moisture loss and reduces inflammation. There are 3 types of Hyaluronic Acid on the market - high, medium and low. High penetrates the stratum corneum (top layer of the skin) and is the cheapest form, medium works on the deeper layers of the epidermis and acts as a water reserve offering instant moisturisation as well as long lasting hydration and low penetrates deeply (all the way down to the reticular dermis) to ensure deep saturation. DermaQuest products contain all 3!
FERULIC ACID
Like Vitamin C, this is another anti-oxidant that helps to protect the skin and reduce sun damage, fine lines and wrinkles. In fact, it actually helps skin to absorb Vitamin C and so are great to use combined. It is derived from cereal grains but can also be found in fruits and vegetables, seeds and beans.